I woke up this morning with a mosquito bite, smack dab in the middle of my upper lip. I looked like a juvederm treatment gone bad.. Perfect start to a day of picture taking. ;)
We left Lucky's around 6am to try to beat most of the crowd to the Taj and to get to see the famous sunrise hues. Everyone else had the same idea. They had separate lines for Indian women, foreign women, Indian men, and foreign men. Simon appropriately noted this was one of the few times he wished he was an Indian woman... Their line was significantly shorter.
Everyone told me that the Taj looks just like the pictures and several said that they were underwhelmed by the monument. I could not disagree more! I was struck with awe after turning the corner and seeing it in the distance! Just like the Eiffel tower and "the David", my mind could not fathom the actual size of the structure without seeing it with my own eyes. Breathtaking! I'll post pictures on Facebook, but they will look just like everyone else's pictures, 2-D and boring. Go there, people!
After hanging around the Taj for a couple hours and snapping some of my standard "look at me, I'm in front of something important" shots, we headed back to Lucky's for breakfast. Everyone ordered the American breakfast... I made sure to make note to my America-hating companions about their succumbing to the US's worldly power. They weren't as amused. ;)
Next stop was the Agra fort. Again, pictures don't do it justice. Massive... And entirely poor use of resources (marble)... But I guess that's what history has going for it. Between these two monuments, I have become very intrigued by Shah Jahan (the builder of the Taj for his FAVORITE wife and a co-constrictor of parts of the Agra fort). If it's marble, it's Jahan. Sadly, this man lost his wife at a young age, built her a massive monument that took 17 years to construct, then was held captive BY HIS SON, in his own fort, with a view overlooking the monument of his dead lover. Sad day. And then the British came and all went to hell... Gotta love colonialism
I had some time to kill before heading out, so Lucky took me down to the south bazar for some henna that I've been wanting. Some guy on a street corner came highly suggested from Lucky's wife... She was correct. He seriously finished my entire right arm in less than 15 mins. I was too broke for both arms, so I settled with one. Pics to come.
Lucky came back to pick me up on his motorcycle. I braved the one-arm grasp ride (to not smudge my henna) through Agra on his bike. While I consider him a good driver for Indian standards.... There were a couple moments when I feared for my life... Or at least the skin on my legs.
On that note, let me explain to you the details of driving in India:
1) the only necessary supplies you need are a working horn, gas pedal, and headlights that can flash. Rear-view mirrors, road lines, brakes, helmets/seat belts... These are all obstacles getting in the way of traveling from point A to point B in the most aggressive manner possible.
2) if you are passing someone on the left, honk. If you are passing someone on the right, honk. If you want someone to move over so you can pass them... if you want someone to go faster than they are going... if you see a pedestrian too close to your path... or if you are traveling 40+ MPH in the wrong lane with a car coming head on as equally as fast.... Honk. Sometimes flashing your lights is necessary as well, but I'm unsure as to when this is the case.
Thus, you can hear the excitement in my voice as I tell you that Lucky suggested I take a taxi to Delhi from Agra (a 4 hour trip). He "knows a guy" (just like everyone else in India), so he got me a good deal on a driver for the trip (about as much as it would cost to get to O'hare from my apt in Chicago), so I took him up on the offer. Things started out safely, but eventually became nothing short of riding in a demolition derby on the highway. There were a couple times when the driver slipped on his seat belt. This terrified me... What could be ahead that he knows about that I don't?! Oh, and the buckle to MY seatbelt was nowhere to be found!
I tried to just close my eyes and take a nap, but my 19 year old driver (and self-proclaimed new best friend) found it necessary to learn everything about my personal life possible. The obvious question, "are you married" always makes me want to lie... But then I would have to make up a series of lies afterwards that will inevitably follow... So I just told the truth. This was followed by "you not married?! everything ok? No problem?". No sir, there's nothing wrong with me. ;)
Alas, I made it to Delhi in one piece, although some of my dignity may have remained in the car. After getting through security I ran into Sheetal (a friend from med school that was also studying in India, but in a different part of the country)! We sat, drank, and discussed our adventures.... And I realized how excited I am to be going home to see my friends and family. What a fantastic end to an even more fantastic trip! Thanks for reading, and I'll see you back in the good ol' US of A!
Monday 12 March 2012
Lucky Day!
What a wonderful weekend to cap off my time in India! We boarded the train last night at 6pm and arrived at Mathura at 4:15am. Although the rail system isn't quite as nice as "the Darjeeling limited" portrayed it to be, I didn't see a single rodent on the train. It was interesting to go to the bathroom in a hole through which you can see the train tracks passing by.... Don't think I'd want to walk the tracks in this country.
Ram surprised us at the station in Mathura by having his brother pick us up in an SUV. Best surprise car ever, according to Alice.... I have to agree. As we traveled through the town, in the dark, to our first temple of the day, I thought to myself, "holy f**k! I'm in the trunk of an SUV, in India, with a group of people from all over the world that I had no idea existed 2 weeks ago!" At this point I realized that my life is fantastic!
We got to the first temple, the birthplace of the Lord Krishna a tad bit too late, so we had to sight see for a couple hours until it opened again. We went to 3 other temples, including a garden where Krishna used to take his love. The place was swarming with monkeys! I seriously feared having my face eaten for the first 15 minutes. After a while, the monkeys just became cute to watch. They are in the process of taking over that town!
We returned to the birthplace temple at 6:30am and were finally allowed to enter. We browsed to look at the architecture and history before the ceremony started. It began with singing/chanting and culminated in the opening of 3 shrines, one at a time. Each time one opened, the crowd fell to the floor and sang in harmony "hare krishna". It took my breath away. Some of the others found it creepy, but I found it wonderfully inspiring. Extremely spiritual!
Next on our trip was a visit to Fatehpur Sikri, an ancient sandstone Mughal town completely abandoned. The architecture was amazing! After seeing all the extravagant buildings and rooms the king had made for his harem, I'm beginning to think my boyfriend needs to step it up a bit (and I haven't even been to the Taj yet)!
We made it to Agra just after noon, but with a full 8 hours behind us already. Ram has a friend, Lucky, in Agra who owns a restaurant and guest house, and who agreed to let us stay for the night. After a quick shower and nap, Ram came to take us to his house in a village just outside Agra. Perhaps my favorite part of the trip thus far!
The entire neighborhood under the age of 15 came over and just stared at us for a couple hours; us, not knowing their language, and they not knowing ours. We managed to entertain to some degree, although the shadow animals made with a head lamp only lasted so long ;). The power went out at least 3 times while we were there, so we spent half of our visit by candle-light. Ram's mother and sister in laws made us a spectacular authentic Indian dinner! It was very interesting to watch them make chapattis by hand over a fire fueled with cow dung (very resourceful). While we may not have been able to express our gratitude in words, I hope our empty plates made a strong enough statement!
And now I'm back at Lucky's, exhausted, and ready to wake up at 4:30 for the Taj at sunrise!
Ram surprised us at the station in Mathura by having his brother pick us up in an SUV. Best surprise car ever, according to Alice.... I have to agree. As we traveled through the town, in the dark, to our first temple of the day, I thought to myself, "holy f**k! I'm in the trunk of an SUV, in India, with a group of people from all over the world that I had no idea existed 2 weeks ago!" At this point I realized that my life is fantastic!
We got to the first temple, the birthplace of the Lord Krishna a tad bit too late, so we had to sight see for a couple hours until it opened again. We went to 3 other temples, including a garden where Krishna used to take his love. The place was swarming with monkeys! I seriously feared having my face eaten for the first 15 minutes. After a while, the monkeys just became cute to watch. They are in the process of taking over that town!
We returned to the birthplace temple at 6:30am and were finally allowed to enter. We browsed to look at the architecture and history before the ceremony started. It began with singing/chanting and culminated in the opening of 3 shrines, one at a time. Each time one opened, the crowd fell to the floor and sang in harmony "hare krishna". It took my breath away. Some of the others found it creepy, but I found it wonderfully inspiring. Extremely spiritual!
Next on our trip was a visit to Fatehpur Sikri, an ancient sandstone Mughal town completely abandoned. The architecture was amazing! After seeing all the extravagant buildings and rooms the king had made for his harem, I'm beginning to think my boyfriend needs to step it up a bit (and I haven't even been to the Taj yet)!
We made it to Agra just after noon, but with a full 8 hours behind us already. Ram has a friend, Lucky, in Agra who owns a restaurant and guest house, and who agreed to let us stay for the night. After a quick shower and nap, Ram came to take us to his house in a village just outside Agra. Perhaps my favorite part of the trip thus far!
The entire neighborhood under the age of 15 came over and just stared at us for a couple hours; us, not knowing their language, and they not knowing ours. We managed to entertain to some degree, although the shadow animals made with a head lamp only lasted so long ;). The power went out at least 3 times while we were there, so we spent half of our visit by candle-light. Ram's mother and sister in laws made us a spectacular authentic Indian dinner! It was very interesting to watch them make chapattis by hand over a fire fueled with cow dung (very resourceful). While we may not have been able to express our gratitude in words, I hope our empty plates made a strong enough statement!
And now I'm back at Lucky's, exhausted, and ready to wake up at 4:30 for the Taj at sunrise!
Friday 9 March 2012
Chalo
Chalo = "let's go" in Hindi (one of the 3 words I learned in 2 weeks)
Today is my last day in Udaipur. I'm sad to say good-bye. Such a short trip, but I have truly begun to see charm in the daily life of the people here. The majority of my day thus far has been spent recovering from the past 2 days of Holi celebration. The color, which has not completely washed off my skin, stands as a reminder of the craziness of the celebration.... my lethargy, however, is a reminder I could do without.
We packed our bags and stashed up on food for the 12 hour train ride to Agra that starts in just a few hours. The Taj Mahal is amongst the few amazing sites planned. I'm excited to get to see some more of the countryside, and I've been putting on my game face for the potential of rodents/insects on our sleeper car. Game face go!
Sitting on the roof today, drinking our instant coffee, talking about my visit and contemplating future endeavors in travel, I realized the amazing friendships that have been formed over my trips abroad... and Udaipur has been no different. I will miss these girls (and Ram, of course)! I'm promising to send real coffee from the U.S.
Today is my last day in Udaipur. I'm sad to say good-bye. Such a short trip, but I have truly begun to see charm in the daily life of the people here. The majority of my day thus far has been spent recovering from the past 2 days of Holi celebration. The color, which has not completely washed off my skin, stands as a reminder of the craziness of the celebration.... my lethargy, however, is a reminder I could do without.
We packed our bags and stashed up on food for the 12 hour train ride to Agra that starts in just a few hours. The Taj Mahal is amongst the few amazing sites planned. I'm excited to get to see some more of the countryside, and I've been putting on my game face for the potential of rodents/insects on our sleeper car. Game face go!
Sitting on the roof today, drinking our instant coffee, talking about my visit and contemplating future endeavors in travel, I realized the amazing friendships that have been formed over my trips abroad... and Udaipur has been no different. I will miss these girls (and Ram, of course)! I'm promising to send real coffee from the U.S.
Wednesday 7 March 2012
Happy Holi
Today is the eve of Holi in the Hindu religion. It is a spring tradition based on celebrating the escape of Prahlad, a devotee of Vishnu, from the fire that the Demoness Holika carried him into (think shadrach, meshach, and abednego). Tonight we went down to Jagdish Temple to see the burning of a special bonfire, known as Holika Dahan (burning of Holika) or Chhoti Holi (little Holi), which has a center made of a wood that does not burn, for symbolization. Unfortunately, my phone died so I couldn't get any footage of the actual burning... There was a lot of fireworks.... And indian men groping the few white girls that braved the Old City to watch. We actually were interviewed by local tv station.... Famous!
Afterwards, everyone celebrates Holi by throwing colored powders all over everyone (see my Facebook pic for a visual). We will continue the celebration through tomorrow (the actual day of Holi) by day drinking of alcohol and bhang (Wikipedia it!) and throwing colors all over each other some more. Indians know how to throw an awesome party!!
Afterwards, everyone celebrates Holi by throwing colored powders all over everyone (see my Facebook pic for a visual). We will continue the celebration through tomorrow (the actual day of Holi) by day drinking of alcohol and bhang (Wikipedia it!) and throwing colors all over each other some more. Indians know how to throw an awesome party!!
Monday 5 March 2012
Frustrations
Frustration. Frustration with the heat. Frustration with the Internet not working. Frustration with eating daal everyday. Frustration with bathing out of a bucket. Most of all, frustration that I am getting frustrated by these things.
I have been to developing countries, I have lived without air conditioning through the 115 degree Italian summer, I have hitch-hiked in Costa Rica, and I have camped in a tent in Juarez for a week, so why are these subtleties bothering me so much now? Have I grown too accustom to the American life or am I just getting too old for this? I guess I need to step back and figure out how I want my time in India to be spent. Do I want to experience the best of India, or do I want to live the life of an Indian? It is unauthentic, in my opinion, to bring an American life to where you travel, as you should see a country in the viewpoint of those that live there. Yet, I sit here writing on my iPad, connecting to the world via Facebook,.... And complaining.
My mom made some comment yesterday about me sacrificing my comfort to help others. While I understand her intentions, I disagree. I am capable of helping the less fortunate in my apartment in Chicago. I can live in a luxury high rise and write a big check for some NGO. By coming here, I am sacrificing my comfort to help myself; to better understand the culture and strife of individuals across the globe. To see the world from their prospective. In the long run, I will go home a changed human being, but they will continue on the same.
Strangely, I'm not as frustrated anymore.
I have been to developing countries, I have lived without air conditioning through the 115 degree Italian summer, I have hitch-hiked in Costa Rica, and I have camped in a tent in Juarez for a week, so why are these subtleties bothering me so much now? Have I grown too accustom to the American life or am I just getting too old for this? I guess I need to step back and figure out how I want my time in India to be spent. Do I want to experience the best of India, or do I want to live the life of an Indian? It is unauthentic, in my opinion, to bring an American life to where you travel, as you should see a country in the viewpoint of those that live there. Yet, I sit here writing on my iPad, connecting to the world via Facebook,.... And complaining.
My mom made some comment yesterday about me sacrificing my comfort to help others. While I understand her intentions, I disagree. I am capable of helping the less fortunate in my apartment in Chicago. I can live in a luxury high rise and write a big check for some NGO. By coming here, I am sacrificing my comfort to help myself; to better understand the culture and strife of individuals across the globe. To see the world from their prospective. In the long run, I will go home a changed human being, but they will continue on the same.
Strangely, I'm not as frustrated anymore.
Sunday 4 March 2012
Sunday Funday
Sunday is the one day a week that Indians don't work (although the amount if work they do during the week is debatable). Typically, the office at seva mandir is empty until 10:30am, then there is a 2 hour power outage everyday to conserve energy (usually starting at 11 or 12), and then chai breaks happen at 3, and then most are employees are done by 4:30-5. But alas, Sunday is the day of rest.
We decided to go to a royal cemetery this morning after enjoying our watermelon for breakfast. The "cemetery" is, according to Ram, the place where they took royalty after death. Indians don't bury their dead, they cremate them, so the location at which they were cremated, a structure was built in their honor (a cenotaph). They are almost all made out of marble and are beautiful. Upon entering, we were told there was no photography, unless of course we wanted to pay the guard ;). We chose to take our pictures secretly. We found one of the largest monuments and sat on the steps in the shade for a while and just hung out(or as Ram says, "just chatted with some white chicks").
We sought shade because the heat is slowly creeping in. When I first arrived, the days were similar to our spring, and the nights were chilly enough to require a heavy blanket to sleep. Now, only a week later, it's reaching ~97 degrees when the sun is up, and the mosquitoes are beginning to bite. Perhaps I should be a little more diligent with my malaria meds.
After the trip back to the dorm, I took a short (well, maybe I should say "adequate") nap to keep myself out of the sun and to enjoy a lazy Sunday. Then, I made my first adventure alone down to the Old City. I first went to Jagdish temple which is right in the center of the old city, and it appeared from all the color on everyone that they were already beginning Holi (again, I'll eventually get a post about the holiday). Inside the temple, people were playing instruments, singing, and dancing. I took a video and put it on Facebook.
After the temple, I roamed around the city looking for some gifts and souvenirs, and then made my way back to Fatehpura circle where I live.
A couple mistakes/typos/incorrect ipad autocorrects from previous posts:
5 rupees = 10 cents
Colander was supposed to be coriander
We decided to go to a royal cemetery this morning after enjoying our watermelon for breakfast. The "cemetery" is, according to Ram, the place where they took royalty after death. Indians don't bury their dead, they cremate them, so the location at which they were cremated, a structure was built in their honor (a cenotaph). They are almost all made out of marble and are beautiful. Upon entering, we were told there was no photography, unless of course we wanted to pay the guard ;). We chose to take our pictures secretly. We found one of the largest monuments and sat on the steps in the shade for a while and just hung out(or as Ram says, "just chatted with some white chicks").
We sought shade because the heat is slowly creeping in. When I first arrived, the days were similar to our spring, and the nights were chilly enough to require a heavy blanket to sleep. Now, only a week later, it's reaching ~97 degrees when the sun is up, and the mosquitoes are beginning to bite. Perhaps I should be a little more diligent with my malaria meds.
After the trip back to the dorm, I took a short (well, maybe I should say "adequate") nap to keep myself out of the sun and to enjoy a lazy Sunday. Then, I made my first adventure alone down to the Old City. I first went to Jagdish temple which is right in the center of the old city, and it appeared from all the color on everyone that they were already beginning Holi (again, I'll eventually get a post about the holiday). Inside the temple, people were playing instruments, singing, and dancing. I took a video and put it on Facebook.
After the temple, I roamed around the city looking for some gifts and souvenirs, and then made my way back to Fatehpura circle where I live.
A couple mistakes/typos/incorrect ipad autocorrects from previous posts:
5 rupees = 10 cents
Colander was supposed to be coriander
Saturday 3 March 2012
Weekend!
My goings-on in the past 2 days:
Last night, Alli, Alice, ram (local employee of seva who lives at the dorms), and Eva (PhD student from Lithuania) made dinner. It was nice to finally get to help out with some of the food preparation, and it turned out quite delicious! I'm sure that adding cumin, colander, and turmeric in any combination to any food would probably end up tasting the exact same though ;)
I slept in today (imagine that), and got some Thali for lunch (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thali). After getting home, we then went through the complicated process of getting train tickets to Agra for next weekends trip to the Taj Mahal. Apparently the tickets to Agra are sold out, so we had to get tickets to a city on the outskirts and will have to take a bus into Agra. Fortunately, the city that we arrive in is the birthplace of Krishna, so we will get to spend an afternoon seeing some sights before hopping the bus. The real issue came with finding train tickets home. This doesn't affect me because I will be hopping a bus to Delhi to catch my flight home, but it posed a problem for the rest of the gang. We had to personally all go down to the train station to figure it all out, but alas, we succeeded (with much help from Ram).
On the way home we stopped for some coffee (a delight I have missed greatly), and bought a watermelon on the walk back to the apartment. Tonight we plan on going to Fateh Sagar lake and eating some momos (wikipedia it!). Apparently all the cool kids go to Fateh Sagar after dark to hang out. My first time being cool... Super excited!
Last night, Alli, Alice, ram (local employee of seva who lives at the dorms), and Eva (PhD student from Lithuania) made dinner. It was nice to finally get to help out with some of the food preparation, and it turned out quite delicious! I'm sure that adding cumin, colander, and turmeric in any combination to any food would probably end up tasting the exact same though ;)
I slept in today (imagine that), and got some Thali for lunch (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thali). After getting home, we then went through the complicated process of getting train tickets to Agra for next weekends trip to the Taj Mahal. Apparently the tickets to Agra are sold out, so we had to get tickets to a city on the outskirts and will have to take a bus into Agra. Fortunately, the city that we arrive in is the birthplace of Krishna, so we will get to spend an afternoon seeing some sights before hopping the bus. The real issue came with finding train tickets home. This doesn't affect me because I will be hopping a bus to Delhi to catch my flight home, but it posed a problem for the rest of the gang. We had to personally all go down to the train station to figure it all out, but alas, we succeeded (with much help from Ram).
On the way home we stopped for some coffee (a delight I have missed greatly), and bought a watermelon on the walk back to the apartment. Tonight we plan on going to Fateh Sagar lake and eating some momos (wikipedia it!). Apparently all the cool kids go to Fateh Sagar after dark to hang out. My first time being cool... Super excited!
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